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Operator
Good day, and welcome to the VF Corporation third-quarter 2016 earnings conference call. Today's call is being recorded.
At this time I would now like to turn the conference over to Lance Allega, VP of IR and Strategic Accounts. Please go ahead, is sir.
- VP of IR and Strategic Accounts
Thank you, good morning and welcome to VF's third quarter 2016 results. I'd like to remind everyone that participants on the call will make forward-looking statements. These statements are based on current expectations and are subject to certain uncertainties that could cause actual results to differ materially.
These uncertainties are detailed in documents filed regularly with the SEC. Unless otherwise noted amounts that are participant referred to on today's call will be predominantly in currency-neutral terms which we defined in the press release that was issued at 6.55 a.m. Eastern this morning.
We use currency-neutral amounts as lead numbers in our discussion because we feel it more accurately represents the true operational performance and underlying results of our businesses and brands. You may also hear us refer to reported amounts, which are in accordance with US GAAP.
These amounts include the impact from foreign currency exchange rates, reconciliations of GAAP measures to currency neutral amount can be found in the supplemental financial tables included in the Press Release, which identify and quantify all excluded items.
On August 26 we announced that we had completed the sale of the Contemporary Brands Coalition to Delta Galil industry. Accordingly those assets and liabilities were moved into Discontinued Operations and results presented on today's call are based on continuing operations.
Joining us on today's call will be VF Chairman and CEO Eric Wiseman, President and COO Steve Rendle, President of our international Business, Karl Heinz Salzburger, and our CFO, Scott Roe. Following our prepared remarks we'll open the call for questions and ask that you limit yourselves to two per caller. Thanks.
Eric?
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks, Lance and good morning, everyone.
We have a lot to share on today's call, so I'll get right to it. You'll hear that our third quarter results confirm our ability to deliver value in an uneven global economy.
You'll hear caution around the external environment and confidence that our operational discipline can safeguard profitability in the near and long term. But what you won't hear is that it's business as usual for VF. Let's start with the environment.
Last October, our year-to-date revenue on a comp basis was up 9% and EPS was up 17%, including broad based strength across our brands and regions around the world. However, during the past four quarters, weak consumer spending, the warmest winter on record, retail bankruptcies and excess inventory in the off price channel have had an out-sized impact particularly on our US business.
Consistently positive results from our international business, which is about 40% of our revenues have been somewhat offset by a slight decline in our US business. Simply put, we've seen mixed results.
By channel our D to C business has seen steady growth, up 7% year-to-date and we've made significant progress towards amplifying our connection with consumers in the space where we directly control our brands. In harnessing this powerful growth driver we're keeping a sharpened eye toward brick and click channel shifts while staying laser focused on productivity and insuring our growth-oriented investments are balanced accordingly.
In wholesale, conservative retailer open-to-buys, buy now, wear now calendar shifts, and leaner inventory positions remain among the top priorities for many retailers. As you'd imagine this conservatism has put even greater pressure on vendors who are being asked to take on larger inventory risks to meet demand closer to consumer need.
And while we don't like it, rather than speculatively building inventory we reduced our inventory buys to protect our brands and insure channel health. And we're pulling various levers to preserve gross margin expansion and insure profitability with inventory up only 1%, we're confidently managing the business to be in line with the environment.
That said let's take a look at how this environment impacted our Third Quarter top line results. Revenue was down 1% while we were down in the US, VF's international business was up 6% with a 6% increase in Europe a 9% increase in the non-US Americas region and 4% growth in Asia Pacific.
Our direct-to-consumer business was also up 6% with strength in the Outdoor and Action Sports and Jeanswear coalitions being tempered by ongoing weakness in sportswear. Our Outdoor and Action Sports coalition was up 2%, driven by an 8% increase in Vans and essentially flat results for both The North Face and Timberland.
Keep in mind these three brands faced tough comps against last year's third quarter when Timberland was up 21%, The North Face up 11% and Vans up 10% in a very different environment. Let's take a moment on Vans, and paraphrasing Mark Twain, the reports of Vans' decline have been greatly exaggerated, so let's take a closer look.
Unless you've been following along all year, Vans' 8% growth on top of last years 10% growth doesn't tell the whole story. As we detailed on previous calls, Vans EMEA business which is about 25% of global revenue has been working through an inventory imbalance in 2016.
This work-through saw Vans' EMEA revenue down slightly this quarter which is exactly what we expected and we still expect the Brand to return to growth in the last quarter of this year. In Asia, the Vans momentum continued with revenue up more than 20%.
Now in the Americas, despite reports from channel checks and even partner commentary that was mistakenly interpreted to our Brand, the Vans business was up 10%, which is an acceleration off 9% in the Second Quarter and 8% in the first quarter. That makes 10% growth on top of 10% growth for the Vans America business. So by quarter, 8%, 9%, and 10%. And we're expecting the fourth quarter to be in line with the third and yes, that's more detail than we normally give but it just seemed necessary this time around.
Next up, and returning to the mixed and uneven environment theme, Jeanswear revenue was down 4% following seven consecutive quarters of mid-single-digit growth. Steve will go into greater detail about the particulars in the quarter, but on balance for the year, Q3 should prove to be an anomaly and we expect Jeanswear to return to mid-single-digit growth in the Fourth Quarter. Our inventory coalition declined 4% as growth in our Licensed Sports Group was offset by ongoing sector challenges in the work wear business and despite the revenue decline, profit remained strong up more than two points.
Our sportswear business saw revenue decline 13% and the story there remains the same. Troubling US Department Store and outlet conditions along with general category weakness and finally in August we completed the sale of the contemporary brands business to Delta Galil Industries.
Now, rounding out the P&L. On a currency neutral basis our gross margin was up 130 basis points to 49%, and our operating margin was up 50 basis points to 18.6%.
Take that through to the bottom line and currency neutral EPS was up 16%. While we're certainly not satisfied with this quarters top line performance, we clearly demonstrated some of the many levers we have at our disposal to ultimately get the EPS job done and we did just that.
So what's not business as usual? The current environment has lead us to employ even greater analysis with respect to the areas of the business where we can become stronger, more efficient and more effective. From processes and operations to product creation, category expansion and distribution opportunities, to the shape of our brand portfolio and where we ultimately plan to take it in our next chapter.
All of this requires an aggressive yet measured holistic approach to marketplace Management to bring the industries most compelling and innovative products to consumers more quickly, delivering premium experiences whenever, wherever and however they connect with our brands. Our approach is centered on the development of business scenarios assessing the risks and opportunities by brand and platforms and the play book necessary to address them and then leveraging the full power of VF's operational and financial disciplines.
If this sounds like just the type of content that would fill an Investor Day then you would be correct. To an event were targeting for some time late in the First Quarter of 2017 with more details to follow.
And speaking of next chapters, we announced earlier this month that I'm retiring from the CEO position and will remain Executive Chairman of the Board of Directors. The Board named Steve Rendle CEO effective January 1. I give VF's Board a lot of credit for its longstanding, rigorous approach to succession planning and Steve's selection is the direct result of this process.
When I became CEO nine years ago, within the first few months the Board began work to identify and prepare the right person to succeed me. Steve is the right person. I know most of you have had the pleasure of meeting Steve and I can assure you VF will be in very capable hands. Steve?
- President & COO
Thanks, Eric.
Appreciate the kind words and the trust that VF's Board of Directors has placed in me. I look forward to January 1 and the incredible opportunities that lie ahead for VF in its next chapter. For now let's take a look at Q3.
Starting with the outdoor and action sports coalition. Revenue was up 2% as described earlier, where we control our Brands directly we continue to see consistent growth. In the quarter, Outdoor and Action Sports D to C was up low double digits with positive results in nine of our 11 brands.
This was offset by a low single-digit decline in wholesale where a tough comp against last year's low teen increase. Buy now wear now calendar shifts and bankruptcies tempered results.
Turning to our three largest brands, revenue for The North Face was flat with a midteen increase in D to C, offset by a mid-single-digit decline in wholesale. Keep in mind that last year The North Face grew 11% in the third quarter, so even though the results were flat, we performed relatively well given the changes in the environment and retailer caution around orders headed into this Winter season.
On a comp basis, if you exclude impacts from bankruptcies, global revenues for The North Face would have been up at a mid-single-digit rate. In the Americas revenue was down mid-single-digits with healthy midteen UC growth offset by a low double digit decline in wholesale.
Bankruptcies had a big impact on our wholesale business. Without them, total revenue for North Face Americas would have been flat in the quarter versus a mid-single-digit decline.
Versus last year we did see a meaningful shift of retailers wanting deliveries later in the calendar, particularly a third to Fourth Quarter shift. This reflects the desire to have leaner inventory positions and match consumers buy now wear now behavior.
Setting floors with seasonal products when it's actually the season is a shift we believe is appropriate and one that should eventually help mitigate what's been a volatile markdown environment. Taking a look at some of the product highlights during the quarter as we continue to evolve our four seasons strategy, warm weather categories like training apparel, lightweight outerwear and sportswear continue to resonate.
Our mountain athletics collection along with products like Drizzle, Venture and Millerton have seen early season momentum. Additionally Thermal 3D our new smooth faced fleece is already a top five-selling sportswear style in our direct-to-consumer business. We also saw strong results in backpacks and logo wear, which combined were up at a midteen rate.
On the branding side, less than two weeks ago, in honor of its 50th anniversary, The North face unveiled its new global brand campaign, Question Madness. The campaign's digital content series showcases athletes from throughout the brands history, examining individual motives for exploration and the gratification that comes from pushing norms and boundaries. And finally on Wednesday this week, The North Face officially opens its fifth avenue store in New York City, an immersive brand experience that includes an interactive climbing wall, our unique consumer segmentation strategy, and custom product that will only be available at that location.
Clearly a lot of momentum, innovation and experiences at play, yet we're electing to take a cautious approach to the balance of the year to more closely mirror market conditions, despite the fact that we feel well positioned with our inventory in the channel, it's readily apparent that there's a lot of competitive product in the marketplace, particularly in the off price channel that's stunting early autumn momentum. This along with bankruptcies and warmer September and October conditions have caused us to take a more prudent position with inventory to try to mitigate markdown risk and protect the long-term integrity of the brand.
Given this conservativism in the Americas business, we're taking our full year global expectations down to low single-digit growth compared to the previous mid-single-digit. This move is also mirrored in our full year Outdoor and Action Sports coalition outlook. Certainly not what we'd like to do at this point but on balance the right thing to do for the brand and overall channel health.
Now to KH.
- VP of VF Corporation and Group President, International
Good morning, everyone.
The North Face European business had another strong quarter with revenue up over 20%, driven by high teen increase in DTC and more than 20% growth in our wholesale business. Demand remains strong across most geographies and product categories. Warm weather products performed well in the quarter with our mountain athletics collection up over 70% driven by our expanded men's collection. Sportswear also performed strongly with revenue up over 20%.
In September, our new Thermal World campaign went live across eCommerce, retail and wholesale, good timing before cooler weather has started to set in. During the quarter we opened our first urban exploration store in London, an active lifestyle focused location geared at the city adventurer.
We also opened our first branch stores based on a new concept with a higher focus on the consumer experience and our distinct consumer segmentation strategies. Early results have been very promising. We are really pleased with the announced European business. The work we started a few years ago with respect to local for local product design, our targeted distribution strategy, and changes in the way we reach consumers has put the business solidly on track for a very strong year.
In Asia, Third Quarter revenue was down slightly. Our retail business saw midteen growth driven by strength in Hong Kong and strong eCommerce sales, which more than doubled as we revamped our website. This was offset by a mid-single-digit decline in wholesale due to heavy promotions across the outdoor category in China. Overall we expect Asia to return to growth in the Fourth Quarter.
Now on to Vans.
- President & COO
I think Eric's opening run on Vans was pretty straightforward about the confidence we have in VF's second largest brand. The strong momentum that continues and its ability to perform consistently well against expectations.
In the third quarter, Vans' global revenue was up 8%, driven by a midteen increase in D to C and a slight bump in wholesale driven by strong results in the Americas and Asia Pacific businesses. In the Americas revenue was up 10% B to C, which is more than 50% of this regions revenue and there is your cautionary tale about market share data, was up at a low teen rate with 15% eCommerce growth.
Wholesale revenue was up mid-single-digits with fairly even strength across concepts. And to point out once again this 10% increase follows 9% growth in Q2, which was up from 8% growth in Q1. During the quarter, our new lights and ISO models met the demands of the athletic lifestyle inspired consumer with lightweight construction, new colors and materials.
Our classic styles, specifically the Skate High and Old School, continued to perform really well and have been recently called out by quite a few magazines and blogs as the "it" shoe being frequently seen on the feet of celebrities athletes and tastemakers worldwide. And of course, in its 50th year of business, Vans' heritage remains front of mind as the original and still number one skate shoe and core board shoe, we continue to support skateboarders worldwide.
During the quarter, Vans held its first pro skate park series competition in four countries to create the platform for skateboarding's inaugural participation in the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics. Earlier this month, Vans launched a collection celebrating the original characters from Disney's Toy Story movie, which showcases Andy's favorite toys across an extensive assortment of adult and kids' footwear, as well as apparel and accessories.
Following Star Wars and Nintendo, the bar is set pretty high, but early momentum on this one is very encouraging. To close out, Vans remains obsessively focused on their consumer and it's becoming even better and more capable of delivering the right product across multiple channels. With momentum and the ever present IT factor on our side we're looking forward to finishing yet another strong year for the brand in the Americas.
- VP of VF Corporation and Group President, International
Vans' European business continued its sequential improvement with revenue down at the low single-digit rate. This is all the site where we said we would be on our last call, so tracking along as planned. Independent of wholesale, which is where inventory actions have taken place all year, our DTC business has performed well with revenue up 20%.
This was driven by midteen comps and eCommerce, which is up more than 40% on the back of a new platform launch. Our iconic old school and skate high classic delivered solid at once sales. Our pro skate performance was also strong with sales up more than 30%, supported by the finance of the pro skate park series, which were held in Malmo, Sweden.
Our panel business also continues to show really strong results. Overall, for Vans Europe we expect this business to return to growth in the Fourth Quarter. In Asia, Vans revenue continues to impress, with more than 20% growth driven by almost 40% growth in DTC, and a midteen increase in our wholesale business.
Similar to last quarter, eCommerce had a significant role in these results by doubling its business. Looking at product Old School continues to perform well and was up over 70% compared to last year, while the Nintendo collection continues to be a hit and had over 80% sell-through.
We also completed a series of House of Vans pop-up events across Asia which continues to be a key brand activation platform, centered around creative sales expression. With more than 45,000 attendees, and over 2.5 million live video views in China, we are constantly driving momentum to visibility and consumer touch points. And finally, China continues to maintain strong momentum, hosting over 30% growth on the back of an aggressively growing eCommerce business. Globally, Vans remains on track to deliver high single-digit growth for the year.
Now on to Timberland, Timberland global revenue was down slightly compared to last year with a mid-single-digit decline in D to C and flat wholesale results. Timberland had the toughest comparison at VF in the third quarter, as it was up against a 21% growth last year which was driven by a 40% increase in the Americas business. Excluding impacts from bankruptcies, global revenues for Timberland would have been up at a low single-digit rate.
The Americas had a mid-single-digit decline with flat D to C results offset by a mid-single-digit decline in wholesale. The dip in wholesale reflects the impacts of the proactive reduction in sell-in that we spoke about on our last call and the buy now wear now calendar shift very similar to The North Face with retailers trying to set floors later in the year for cold weather product.
D to C was flat including gains in full price stores in nearly a 30% increase in eCommerce being offset by outlet locations, which saw a reduction in traffic. And similar to last quarter the Pro business is still under pressure from subdued oil & Gas exploration and industrial manufacturing. Product wise we've continued to see momentum in the men's casual footwear across both wholesale and D to C which is positive validation that our diversification strategy is working.
We're particularly excited about the success of our sensor flex platform with collections like Britain Hill and Amhurst seeing excellent sell-through. Another bright spot is the Timberland Boot Company, which was our top family in D to C and saw strong results with our exclusive Department Store partner. At more than $300 a pair this reinforces we have permission to play in the premium footwear market.
In women's we see a similar story with our casual footwear collections. Revenues for our healed Gliancy six-inch boot were up five times in D to C and the Kenniston, again a SensorFlex style, saw strong sell-through as well, more proof points Timberland's focus on women is paying off.
Helping to drive this success, we launched a new marketing campaign touting the flex appeal of SensorFlex hitting on both style and performance. The brand also launched a 360-degree marketing campaign centered on our Yellow Boot, driving extensive awareness, PR buzz and social engagement.
In fact, the Yellow Boot video garnered over 3.5 million views in six weeks and was reported as best-in-class by YouTube. Revenue in Euro was up at low single-digit rate with low single-digit DTC and wholesale growth, which was consistent with expectations. Men's footwear was up nicely supported by our SensorFlex campaign.
The new footwear technology combines the SensorFlex outsole with a cup sole look that is selling well. Casual category also performed and drove the footwear business to positive growth in the quarter, despite the warm weather in Q3.
In women's, we continue to innovate and bring new products to market with the Kenniston being our number two seller after the Yellow Boot. In apparel, new product introductions with updated fits, fabric and styles contributed to a 30% increase in that business, a specialty outerwear category that performed very well, gaining market share against competition in new silhouettes.
Revenue in Timberland's Asian business was down slightly, with low double digit wholesale growth offset by midteen decrease in DTC due to traffic declines in Singapore and Japan. This was partially offset by eCommerce, which was up more than 50% in the region.
Killington sold, too, very well in quarter supported by impactful in store Marketing. In September consumers in Japan camped out overnight to purchase items from The Limited Timberland Monkey Time apparel collection, collaboration between the two brands that sold out in hours.
Also just last week, Timberland launched its first direct eCommerce platform in Southeast Asia by opening a site in Singapore, so an excellent way to connect further with consumers in this important market. For the full year globally, there are no changes to the expectation that Timberland will see low single-digit revenue growth.
Now to Jeanswear.
- President & COO
Our global Jeanswear business declined 4% with similar declines at both Wrangler and Lee. While we did plan for the business to be down slightly, based on changes in the timing of shipments, the decline was a little more than we originally anticipated, but as Eric indicated should still prove to be an anomaly for the full year.
Our Americas business saw the majority of the decline, which was partially offset by strength in Europe. Results in the Asia Pacific region were in line with last year.
In the Americas Jeanswear revenue was down at a high single-digit rate, with a mid-single-digit decline in Wrangler and a high single-digit decline in Lee. In addition to timing of shipments, we're off to a slower start to our second half.
And similar to The North Face and Timberland when cold weather materializes we've seen immediate pick up in our denim and long bottoms business. We expect to return to mid-single-digit growth in the Fourth Quarter.
In Wrangler on the marketing front the brand launched a new Fall creative campaign in conjunction with the start of the American football season that has received strong consumer response in brand awareness and recall. The brand also sponsored weekly programs including ESPN college football live and the NFL's Game Day Morning, contributing to more than 2.3 billion national media impressions in the quarter.
Wrangler's western specialty business continues to be challenged. In addition, subdued energy and industrial manufacturing conditions are impacting community spending levels and retailers are aggressively managing inventory.
Lee's high single-digit decline in the third quarter doesn't necessarily tell the whole story. With a low double digit increase in the second quarter, due to accelerated timing of shipments, the third quarter was penalized accordingly.
When averaged across both quarters, which are pretty similar in size, revenue was essentially flat year-over-year for the comparable period. That said we expect to deliver low single-digit growth in the fourth quarter.
A few product highlights in the quarter that received positive response included the new extreme comfort mens casual pant that has lead to market share expansion in wholesale growth. In late September, Lee's Dream Jean was featured on Good Morning America's best denim segment, which has driven a very nice pick up in sales and on the marketing front we launched the Move Your Lee campaign in September to rave reviews, an event that spiked eCommerce sales significantly.
- VP of VF Corporation and Group President, International
In Europe consistent growth continued for the Jeanswear coalition with revenue up at the mid-single-digit rate, balanced between Wrangler and Lee. Marking more than three years of consecutive quarterly growth, Lee's results were driven by solid Fall/Winter bookings and strong replenishment.
Discarded for women and Rider for men continue to be strong drivers for the brand. As in Europe the Move Your Lee brand campaign launched across Scandanavia, Germany, France and the UK to a very positive reception. Wrangler saw strength as the brand transitioned to more modern assortments, with success in both tops and bottoms as well as an increase in third quarter reorders.
Our Body Bespoke PR and social campaign reached more than 5 million views. In Asia, Jeanswear revenue was in line with last year, driven by a low double digit increase in Wrangler offset by a slight decline in Lee due to a timing of shipments from Q3 to Q4.
eCommerce business was up over 20%. During the quarter, Body Optix launched in 400 doors in China, Hong Kong and eCommerce with particularly strong sell-through. The media efforts behind Body Optix kicked off in August and was the first ever to be streamed live on Tmall. For the full year globally, Jeanswear revenue is now expected to see low single-digit growth.
Now to Imagewear.
- President & COO
Imagewear revenue was down 4%, with a slight LSG increase offset by a high single-digit decline in the work wear business. This business, similar to Timberland and Wrangler, continued to be impacted by weakness in the energy and industrial manufacturing sectors. In LSG, MLB saw double digit growth with strong jersey demand, aided by continued success of the Cool Base replica jersey.
On the work wear side, while we continue to see consistent strength in Red Caps automotive shop gear line, it should be no surprise that with oil rig counts hovering at historic lows, both Red Cap and bull work sales were down in the quarter. Considering we will soon begin to lap this decline we expect the work wear business to return to growth in the fourth quarter. Our sportswear business was down 13% in the quarter, due to weakness in both wholesale and D to C. Revenue at Nautica was down 15%; however, adjusting for strategic decisions to license the women's sleepwear and mens underwear business, the brand was down 7%.
Nautica continues to face the same challenges, including heavy discounting and promotional environments in the US Department Store channel and traffic declines at outlets where we've closed 11 stores in the past year. Kipling's North America business was down 6%, and the international business was down 2%, and we expect both businesses to return to growth in the Fourth Quarter. And last but not least congratulations to the Nappapijri team for being VF's fastest growing brand in the quarter.
And with that I'll turn it over to Scott.
- VP of VF Corporation and Group President, Jeanswear, Imagewear, and South America
Thanks, Steve.
In the third quarter revenue was down 1% to $3.5 billion. We've already reviewed the individual coalition results, so let's look at the global business by channel.
Direct-to-consumer revenue was up 6%, including a low double digit increase in Outdoor and Action Sports and mid-single-digit growth in Jeanswear, moderated by a low teen decline in sportswear. Wholesale was down at a low single-digit rate in the quarter with a mid-single-digit increase in our international business, being offset by high single digit decline in the US. By region, the Americas was down 4%, EMEA up 6, and APAC was up 4%.
Gross margin was 48.4%, up 70 basis points versus last year as benefits from pricing, mix and lower product costs were held back a bit by inventory management efforts and a 60-basis point headwind from FX. In fact, currency-neutral gross margin expanded by 130 basis points in the quarter.
SG&A as a percentage of revenues was up 60 basis points to 30.2% as we balanced appropriate cost controls with continued strategic investments in direct-to-consumer, product innovation, and connecting our brands with consumers whenever, wherever, and however they shop.
Third quarter operating margin was up 10 basis points to 18.2%, which included 40 basis points of negative impact from currency. By coalition, operating income and the Outdoor and Action Sports coalition was up 1% and operating margin was 21%.
That's 20 basis points less than last year, as strong gross margin expansion was tempered by FX and continued investment in strategic priorities including D to C and innovation. Jeanswear operating income was down 10%, with operating margin down 90 basis points to 20.3%, due to top line volume and the quarter specific impacts discussed earlier.
Profit for Imagewear was up 11% and operating margin was up 230 basis points, to 16.6% as widespread gross margin improvement with particular strength in LSG drove the results. And in sportswear operating income was down 35% for the reasons already detailed.
So carrying all this to the bottom line, our reported EPS grew 13% to $1.20 in the third quarter. Currency neutral earnings were up 16%. This increase was primarily due to gross margin expansion and a lower tax rate due to regional mix and discrete items.
Now to our balance sheet, if we turn back the clock to February 19, which was in the midst of the winter that never showed up, we told you we intended to carry forward about $60 million of cold weather core product to fulfill orders for the 2016 Fall Winter season. We said it again on April 29 and again on July 22. With today's report that our inventory position is nearly flat we've now delivered on our commitment to solid inventory management.
We have great confidence our marketplace discipline, that is our ability to quickly adapt to supply demand changes, will continue to play an essential role in our future performance. During the quarter we bought back 2.7 million shares of VF stock for $166 million, bringing our year to date total to $1 billion meeting the target we set in February.
As you know, our commitment and track record of returning cash to shareholders is essential to our approach to delivering total shareholder return. In fact, at the end of 2016, we will have returned more than $5.5 billion of cash via share buybacks and dividends over the past five years.
This year, our Board of Directors approved a quarterly dividend of $0.42 per share, which is $0.05 or 14% over the prior quarterly amount. This marks the 44th consecutive year we've increased our annual dividend pay out. With this increase, our calendar 2016 dividend will reach $1.53, a 15% increase over the prior year.
Turning to Outlook, we expect full year currency neutral revenue to be up 2% to about $12.2 billion. This revision is primarily due to lower than expected third quarter results, which flow through to the balance of the year and specific inventory actions we're taking at The North Face and Timberland to improve brand and channel health.
Gross margin should improve 40 basis points to 48.6% or 49.3 currency neutral. Operating margin should reach 14.3% or 14.8% currency neutral. Our tax rate should be about 20% and our reported EPS is expected to increase 3% to $3.13, or up 7% on a currency neutral basis.
As we assess our performance during the past year, pressures in the global economic environment and related shopping patterns combined to create what has now been a four-quarter long uneven environment with mixed performance across our portfolio. Throughout this period we've continued to speak to delivering sustainable profitable growth by investing in the future and delivering value for our shareholders.
And while many things in this environment have changed and shifted since last October, our financial philosophy has not. Maintaining profitability, preserving and returning capital to shareholders and strengthening our brands to insure long term sustainable growth remain our top priorities.
For VF, the current environment is characterized by both challenges and opportunities. To meet the challenges, we're using multiple P&L and balance sheet levers to counter balance top line weakness. From supply chain initiatives and inventory Management to expense discipline around overhead, demand creation and investments, the evolution of our tax platform, to powerful Free Cash Flow, historically high return on capital and dividend yields, we remain able to mitigate risk and safeguard consistency even in the face of uneven conditions.
We've begun to work to strategically assess and actively explore how best to optimize and leverage our strengths to create an even better more responsive organization to accelerate growth. As Eric mentioned, we do have line of sight to an Investor Day where we will share these strategies in the context of our next long range plan.
Currently we're looking some time late in the first quarter of next year, so stay tuned and we'll be in touch by the holidays, if not sooner, for a save-the-date and more details. To close out today's call, amid persistently tough conditions, and some geographies and categories, we believe passionately in our brands, our business, and our ability to deliver the results you've come to expect from us even when our top line is challenged in an uneven environment.
With that, I'll turn the call back over to the operator and we'll take your questions.
Operator
Thank you.
(Operator Instructions)
We will take our first question with Bob Drbul with Guggenheim Securities.
- Analyst
Steve congratulations, Eric best of luck.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks, Bob. Was that your question, Bob?
- Analyst
No. I guess on Vans could we start on Vans a little bit? Seems to be a lot of discussion around the Vans brand. Can you guys update us on where you see the channel inventories both in the US with Vans in the category but also importantly, Europe in the category?
- Chairman & CEO
Bob, I'll start and talk to you in general about Vans and I'll let KH close with specific comments around Europe. I would tell you first and foremost, our Vans brand, the strong momentum continues and I feel compelled to reiterate we were up 10% for this quarter following a 9% in Q2 and an 8% in Q1.
This brand's ability to have consistent flow of relevant new products for each of the channels that they do business in is really I think one of the main points that continues to drive their significant and sustainable growth. And they are intently focused on their consumer and as they think about the different channels, they're being very thoughtful around the collections and different co-labs they are bringing to bear in each of these seasons.
The channel inventory we see in the US is, nothing is alarming to us. They are right where we expected them to be but I think the most remarkable thing, Bob, is the results that we're seeing in our own direct-to-consumer channel where we control that complete brand experience.
Continuing to drive significant growth this last quarter, up low teens. I'll pass it to KH, and he can talk about Europe where we have had some inventory build we've been systematically working through.
- Group President, International
Yes, Bob. Europe is playing out exactly how we had anticipated it at the beginning of the year. Every quarter we saw sequential improvement and as I mentioned we expect Q4 to return into positive territory.
I would say the inventory situation which we faced is normalizing, month by month and the fact that our DTC numbers in Q3 were so strong, up mid-teens, showed brand resonates well with our consumers. We have a lot of good stuff in the pipeline, good product stories which are resonating well. So all-in all we're pretty confident.
- Analyst
And I guess the second question that I have is, in the outdoor area when you look at the inventories that are in off price can you just talk about how that may impact the Q4 on some of your in line product and how you're forecasting to manage through that? And your confidence level in both Timberland in the fourth quarter and The North Face?
- Chairman & CEO
Yes, so I think the important fact here, Bob, is we have seen demand in the wholesale channel shift from Q3 to Q4 or as we said in the commentary to the right. We've seen this beginning but coming out of last Winter the dealer caution is at a significant level and we took actions at that point to really mitigate the amount of inventory that we brought into cover our orders.
We saw, we kind of had a good sense of what was going to go on in the off price channel. We participated in moving goods there last Fall but I'll tell you as we came into September, we were a bit surprised by the sheer amount of just not outerwear from the outdoor industry but from all categories across apparel. And it's what's caused, its really brought us to make this decision to really be thoughtful around our go-forward actions and to mitigate the impact that participation in this channel can have on the long term health of a brand.
I think if we had to do it over again, we may have taken a little bit less of a position as we went into -- out of last Fall. And I think what we saw that maybe compounded things that we didn't see last Fall was the bankruptcies that took place early in the year that had an additional amount of inventory move into the off price channel as well as online, that's causing some pressure in the outdoor industry.
- Analyst
Thank you very much, good luck.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Michael Binetti with UBS.
- Analyst
Hi guys, good morning. Congrats Eric on your next move.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks Michael.
- Analyst
If I could just ask a quick question on the model. Could you help us quantify how much the shift was in Jeanswear? You've commented on an over-arching theme here that retailers are looking to take delivery later on. Maybe you could help us contextualize how much that impacted Jeanswear in the quarter?
- Chairman & CEO
I don't know if I can put an exact number on it. We did expect the Q3 number to be down slightly when we considered the movement of our Lee business from Q3 into Q2. As well as what we saw in our Asia Lee business going from Q3 to Q4. But it was a slightly slower start to the second half and we were -- as we saw the softer consumer spending in the US and specifically in that energy and industrial community but also mid mass, with the warm weather we saw that slight downturn in our denim and long bottoms business.
But Lee was up low double-digits in Q2 and as we come into Q3, we saw that moderate, but we see it coming back to growth in Q4. So on kind of on a level we are right-sizing our expectations for the jeans business for the year, taking it to a low single-digit growth year-over-year.
- Analyst
Congrats, if I didn't mention that up front. Just, Scott, you mentioned looking at the Analyst Day for Q1, and obviously we've all been looking very forward to having an update from you guys. You mentioned looking at the optimum portfolio longer term and obviously timing of things like brand acquisitions or something that's less controllable, and maybe you can give us some thoughts on what you guys are evaluating or maybe some of your early goals you are trying to look at as far as what you're trying to deliver for the Analyst Day in Q1?
- CFO
Michael, we're not going to give a lot of details at this point. But obviously, we've used the words historically that we're active Portfolio Managers and that includes what we move away from our portfolio and what we hope to bring in. And we've been clear this year about a couple of moves that I don't need to repeat and our intent at the Analyst Day will be to lay that out. Hope we have more updates between now and then, so I just can't be specific right now. That would be inappropriate, but we will be more clear I hope when we get to that time late in the first quarter.
- Analyst
Maybe as far as connecting the algorithm that you guys gave us in 2013 to how you guys are thinking about the targeting that you guys want to look at. I know you gave us M&A within the context of the last algorithm. Is that something -- with several years going by since Timberland and obviously you said you're actively looking at things, but is that something you want to continue to put a time frame on or is it something you guys think will come when it comes, we should take the focus off that for now?
- Chairman & CEO
One of the things that we are really proud of is that we haven't made an acquisition in the last five years because we've had opportunities that we have walked away from based on price, where we couldn't deliver shareholder value. And we got inactive when the market was frothy and we would have had to really overpay just in general, so our discipline around that is strong. Our efforts around M&A are non-stop. There has not been a week that's gone by in the last 12 weeks that we haven't had at least one M&A related meeting and discussion, so we're as active as we could possibly be. That's really all I can say.
- Analyst
Okay, thanks again guys.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks, Michael.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
- Analyst
Thanks. Can you guys speak to pricing and product costs? On pricing, any brands where you might consider driving market share at the expense of historical margins? And then on product costs what you're seeing in terms of your outlook?
- CFO
Yes, this is Scott. I'll take that, so we've talked all year about how we expected pricing to offset the FX impact. And we said that would be mostly second half weighted, and indeed that is what we're seeing, as you can see from our gross margin expansion this year -- or this quarter and what we expect next quarter. Same with product costs. While it's not huge for the year, we said it was a little against us early on and it flips to positive, again we are seeing that and we said particularly in the leather area is where the biggest benefit is coming in.
- Analyst
Got it, and then as we think about the multi-year gross margin profile, what's the confidence on 50 basis points annually. Can you just walk through some of the moving parts and more so just offsets to potentially more moderate outdoor coalition growth?
- CFO
Yes, so as you would probably anticipate we can't speak to the future, but our model has been and we've said consistently we see no reason for this to change in the future, that our fastest growing businesses are our highest margin businesses and that being outdoor action sports, our DTC and our international and there's no reason that wouldn't continue to be the same in the future.
- Analyst
Got it, best of luck.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks.
Operator
We will take our next question from Lindsay Drucker Mann with Goldman Sachs.
- Analyst
Thanks good morning, everyone, and I'll offer my congratulations as well to Eric and Steve.
- Chairman & CEO
Thank you.
- Analyst
I wanted to ask a question, Eric, on a remark you made earlier in the Conference Call about it's not business as usual at VF, and I was hoping maybe you could expand a little bit on some of the areas and initiatives that you're doing differently with the -- in the context of as an organization that you guys are always evolving and striving to perform better. So maybe just some more specifics on what's changing?
- Chairman & CEO
Lindsay, we will cover a lot of this at our Investor Day later in the first quarter, but I'll give you a couple realtime examples. As we saw slowdown in the performance of our North Face stores in North America earlier this year, we rapidly worked to implement some in-store model changes that made our stores look different and were more engaging for consumers. We've been rolling that out and we're seeing immediate impact from it.
So they are pretty significant changes, and if you were to go into the Michigan Avenue store or the new store in New York City you're going to see what we think the future of that looks like. It was a sense of urgency around making some of those tactical things and we're doing that around the world. You heard that our DTC business is up 7% year-to-date in total and that to us is very encouraging because when we record revenue in our DTC business it's because a consumer came into a store and bought something they wanted. When we report revenue in our wholesale model it's a shipment to another retailer for a future sale to consumer.
One is a true impact of how effectively our products and stories communicate. The other has a long delay on it and is impacted by things we don't control like wholesale. I'm sorry like inventory and wholesale.
So we've been working on the shorter term things and we've given a lot more detail around the shape of the portfolio, the regions and how we're going to distort effort in some of those and more later in the first quarter.
- Analyst
Okay, great.
- President & COO
Lindsay, if I were to add just a real quick point to build on Eric, I think one of the other areas we're really doubling down on is in the area of product design and innovation. And to Eric's point, on what we've done in store is it's really clear in this changing consumer environment that for brands to succeed and with the powerful brand portfolio that we have we know that when we elevate the quality of the design of our products and marry that with really powerful experiences be it in store, at events or through our demand creation, we have an outsized opportunity to succeed.
And I think that would be the other area really married with what Eric talked about in The North Face store that we think will continue to propel our brand support. And you really see that going on in our Vans business. And it's no accident that we congratulated our Napapijri business for being the fastest growing business. They began a lot of work last year and were able to rapidly really shift their go-to-market strategy with product and marketing and they're having a really, really good Fall season.
- Analyst
Great, and on the point about wholesale, is it possible for you to comment on the difference between sell-in versus sell-through to the degree that you're seeing retailers order inventory more cautiously? And how long until this sort of destocking effort from retailers is through to the degree that it escalated it sounds like in the back half of the year? Is this a drag do you think potentially in the first half of next year?
- Chairman & CEO
Yes it really is an exaggerated thing this year and Steve touched on it earlier about the inventory that didn't sell last winter when winter didn't happen. A lot of that inventory is still out there and it's affected our wholesale bookings because people -- if last year they sold 100 jackets and this year they plan to sell 100 but they started with 10, they're going to buy 10 less this year. And that's just a reality but it's really distorted in North America this year and you're seeing it sit at the North Face and Timberland.
It's our colder weather brands that have the least momentum in the wholesale business in North America and that's really where our biggest challenge is. You saw our international results have been strong. They were up 6% in total and they were up in every region other than in the US, and a lot of that is because of the wholesale business being down because of inventory that already exists from last year.
- President & COO
And if I could be consistent with Eric here, our inventories at key retailers are balanced and that's something that we are controlling. But I think the lesson here, Lindsay, is that it's no longer going to be the norm where you set a floor early Fall and expect to take reorders through the season and come out the other side in a successful place.
The demands that consumers are now putting on businesses to bring more frequency of new ideas in elevating that brand experience is something that we're pivoting to be very, very responsive to. And our supply chain really puts us in an advantaged position to be able to look at the number of drops per season for each of our brands and being able to dial that into our model, both how we create the product but also how we build that product and deliver it to our wholesale and our own stores.
- Analyst
Thanks very much.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks, Lindsay.
Operator
We will take our next question from Kate McShane from Citigroup.
- Analyst
Hi, good morning, thanks for taking my question and congratulations Steve and Eric. My question was one that's built on the last question actually with regards to how the business is changing and some of your commentary around direct-to-consumer. We've heard from you in the past that you have these innovation centers and have a lot of flexibility by having partially owned at your supply chain, so I just wondered if you could update us on how you're leveraging these two competitive advantages that again focus on some of the changes that you're seeing in the industry?
- President & COO
Well, Kate, this is Steve. Really, I just build on my reply to Lindsay, is I think the consumer today is able to access pretty much any time what they want, where they want. And for powerful brands to compete in this environment we need to be ever present with innovative product and really powerful experiential demand creation. As I said, either in our stores, at events like our Vans business does with House of Vans, or through the demand creation that we deliver across the different mediums available to us.
So our DTC platform, and again I don't think it's any surprise that that's where we are seeing greatest success, that is where we are able to have ultimate control of our brands assortments and in store experience that leads to that brand experience. And that's where we are able to really bring to bear our new tools and we take those to our wholesale partners and use those to build the same kind of strength in there.
The innovation platform, just to finish, that's really that upstream capability we've added over the last two or three years that as they marry more closely with our in line product teams we have new ideas that will create new platforms, new franchises, just really building into a frequency and flow of new ideas back to that point of bringing new ideas consistently to the consumer.
- Chairman & CEO
Kate, this time I get to pile on Steve's answer. Just the way it works. One of the things that we have that is a unique competitive advantage is just under a third of the products that we sell in the United States we make in this hemisphere. In factories that we own and operate. And in a time when retailers are carrying less inventory and consumers are going through this buy now wear now, everything is happening later closer to the moment of purchase. And by far, our shortest lead time is when we make it in factories that we own and operate in this hemisphere and we're uniquely positioned to do that in our space.
There's not very many people own and operate factories like we do and our lead time there is a fraction of what it is from other regions of the world and it gives us an advantage, whether that's making Timberland boots in the Dominican Republic or making Jeanswear or some North Face products in Mexico and Central America. It really is an asset that we're relying on more and will become more and more part of our strategy.
- Analyst
Thank you.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks, Kate.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Erinn Murphy from Piper Jaffray.
- Analyst
Great, thanks, good morning. Just as I take a step back and listen to the commentary, you are highlighting a number of your brands that are returning to growth in Q4, particularly those that have significant exposure in North America and in the wholesale channel. So could you maybe just express kind of what's changing in the environment or in your visibility that really gives you the confidence and pick up in the fourth quarter?
- Chairman & CEO
Yes, I really do wish that I had a crystal ball that could give me clear context around the fourth quarter. Let me just shape up how we look at it. The fourth quarter, Erinn, in terms of total revenue was about the same size as the third quarter, so we're looking at about a $3.5 billion quarter in each.
One of the differences is that the third quarter is more about wholesale shipments to retailers for eventual sale, and we've already documented that we struggled with that in the third quarter. And the fourth quarter for us is much more about our DTC business, it is when that business peaks as a percentage of revenue and it's a business that is up 7% year to date. So it has been working for us all year around the globe and that's one thing that gives us confidence.
We've also assumed a normal winter and by normal winter we don't mean a 1980s normal winter we mean an average of the last three to five years normal winter which includes some good ones and some bad ones. And if it sets up like that, which is our assumption and that is a big assumption, that we're going to be just fine because we know our stores are working and we know we have the right products in then. As we said we're up 7% year to date, we're up 6% in the third quarter and our effort on communicating to consumers is a lot around driving them to retail, ours or our customers.
- President & COO
Yes, I'd just add one thing from a context standpoint. Remember our third quarter is off of a plus nine in the previous year and our Fourth Quarter is against a minus one so from a comp standpoint that fourth quarter is much easier.
- Analyst
Got it, and then historically you guys have done a significant portion of your order book on pre-book, particularly for the seasonal businesses, so for your major brands today how much are on pre-book going forward and where would that have been about a year ago?
- President & COO
Yes, I'd say the pre-book percentage pretty much holds true. It's not a dramatic shift. It's in the high 90%. We've always gone out and pre-sold and had a very limited amount of reorder inventory on those key seasonal initiatives and don't really see that changing dramatically today or in the future.
- Analyst
I may have missed this, but just the direct-to-consumer comp in Q3 and then what is assumed in Q4, that would be helpful. Thank you.
- CFO
Yes, Erinn we don't give the comp specifically. We just talked about from a shave standpoint, low single-digit.
- Analyst
Thank you guys and best of luck.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
- Analyst
Thanks good morning. Best wishes to you both, Eric and Steve.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks.
- President & COO
Thank you.
- Analyst
Wanted to ask, it's pretty interesting the US market just performance seems to be so different than the rest of the world, the last few quarters and especially this quarter. Maybe talk about what some of the differences are in the markets, is it a macro level issue, is it a competitive landscape? Or is it the business is already quite big in the US and maybe a little bit closer to maturity? Maybe help us think about your key brands in the US versus the other markets and why there's such a disparity in performance?
- President & COO
Yes, I guess I'd go first, I mean we all get to watch the TV these last few weeks and I think there's an over-arching theme going on in our political atmosphere that's giving consumers a little bit of pause and potentially making them a bit conservative as we are all uneasy about where we are ultimately going here.
I think last year's Fall season has had a compounding effect not just on the winter goods but in apparel and footwear in general. And we've seen bankruptcies come into view, having an impact on certainly where businesses like ours have the opportunity to sell, but also where consumers are looking to engage.
So I think the US market just finds itself in maybe a similar situation of where our European business was two or three years ago and as we've got a lot of lessons learned and are employing a lot of really great solutions, I think you saw the growth we delivered here for Q3, I think we have a really strong playbook of how to navigate this.
Because I think at the center here is powerful brands. Consumers absolutely want to connect with them, engage with them, and purchase from them and it's really in our court to create the compelling products and the demand creation that draws them to us and really create that loyal relationship that we can build on year over year.
- Chairman & CEO
I'll add just a little bit of context for you Omar, because there is a consumer thing and then there's the thing that Steve talked about, the bankruptcies and the inventory hangover from last winter. So peeling it back for The North Face because it's such an important part of our story. In the quarter in the Americas our direct-to-consumer business was up mid-teens and in Europe, it was up high-teens, and in Asia it was up mid-teens, so we're all kind of right in the same pocket, where we're selling products to consumers through our stores.
It's in the wholesale side that there's a different story. In outside the US and inside the US and a big part of that is the bankruptcies and the inventory hangover from last year. And as I've stacked them up geographically, and by the way you see about the same thing in Vans wherein Americas it was up low-teens and in EMEA it was up over 20%, it was still strong growth in our own stores and differences in the wholesale piece of the business.
- Analyst
That's actually really helpful Eric to put some context around it. Maybe along the same lines, do you think differently long term about the growth rates, DTC, eCommerce owned stores versus the wholesale channel, is this kind of ratcheting down of inventory levels, is this a temporary thing, the hangover from last year and retailers ordering more cautiously, or do you think there's more of a structural trend here? Where you're going to really try to shift the consumer a little bit away from the wholesale, traditional wholesale channels and more towards the overall DTC complex?
- Chairman & CEO
Great question. I really wish I knew the answer to it. I will tell you that for sure, if you had to make a choice right now, you'd be doing so in a cloudy environment because we don't know exactly how much inventory is out there from us and from all of the competitors. Between our core channels of distribution and the off price and that's going to have to flush through, I think, until we get a better read on that. And it will be different when that flushes through, so if we have a nice solid winter this year and that flushes out, I think that's when you'd want to make any choices about changes in your model.
- President & COO
But real quick our model is very intact. Our wholesale partner relationships are very important, it's over 70% of our total revenue today. And I think our best wholesale partners are looking to and actively evolving their model that marries with our model, and we use our stores to really position our brands in the most complete way. And that learning flows into our best wholesale partners.
And as we evolve our model and really move to more frequency of deliveries across the seasons, this idea of pre-book and wait for reorders starts to give way to more monthly or every six to eight weeks drops of meaningful collections across the different channel partners that our brands have to work with. In putting the right product for that consumer in front of them and using the powerful demand creation to draw them in to transact with us directly or through our powerful wholesale partners.
- Analyst
Appreciate the thoughts guys, thank you.
- Chairman & CEO
Thank you.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Sam Poser with SIG.
- Analyst
Good morning, thanks for taking my question and congratulations to both of you as well.
- Chairman & CEO
Thank you, Sam.
- Analyst
Just want to talk about the inventory first of all. If we look back on the inventory levels over the last few years it looks like even though your inventory is basically in line with last year, it looks like your inventory is still significantly higher than it was two or three years ago and you're -- at the end of Q3 and you're really driving in the same range of cost of goods sold. So I understand it's in line with last year, but was last year too high and what is the correct amount of inventory, what kind of turn do you want to get to and questions of that nature?
- CFO
Sam, this is Scott. So obviously I think if VF is known for anything we're known for the way we manage our inventory. And we look at this very carefully every month really, not even every quarter. And we set targets based on the balance between trying to manage the balance sheet and the cash flow versus making sure we're matching with demand, and you look at our days, they are right in line with what we've historically run from our standpoint.
Our business mix has changed a bit. Our model has evolved a bit as we go to a little more D to C. That has impacts, if you look over a long period of history, but I guess the short answer is we're right about where we want to be from an inventory standpoint and it's back in line from the hangover that we had a year ago.
- Analyst
Thank you, and then secondly, can you give us -- in the Press Release you give us a break down of the EBIT by coalition, but could you dig into the EBIT maybe by brand within the Outdoor and Action Sports coalition or give us some color within the brands there?
- CFO
Yes, Sam, we don't get into profitability by brand. I think you can logically say that our largest brands are also our largest contributors to both gross margin and operating margin expansion. That's just the law of big numbers, but in terms of actually quoting the profitability we don't do that by brand.
- Analyst
How about on a growth perspective in the quarter?
- CFO
Yes, we've given you the growth on the top five brands and beyond that we really don't give more detail.
- Analyst
Well, thank you very much and best of luck.
- Chairman & CEO
Thanks, Sam.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Laurent Vasilescu from Macquarie.
- Analyst
Good morning and I'll add my congratulations. I wanted to follow-up on the Jeanswear coalition. Can you provide some color on how inventories stand within the Jeanswear channels? The last time there was too much Jeanswear inventory in the channel, I think you wound down some internal production. Could we see that happening over the next few quarters and if so, what are the P&L implications?
- President & COO
The inventory levels across our channel partners in Jeanswear is fine. It's in line with expectation. Ours is really looking at coming off a strong Q2 and that shift in our Asia business from Q3 to Q4, and just really moderating shipments based on consumer demand with our channel partners, which our Jeanswear team does extremely well. If anything they are the benchmark that all of our other businesses have learned from.
- Analyst
Okay congrats and congrats on today's overall inventory number. A few weeks ago a very large athletic brand out of the West Coast reported significant build up in western European inventories and I was curious to know how your western European inventories are versus the Company-wide reported percentage of up 1%, and more specifically how are inventories at your key European retail partners?
- President of International Business
I tried to answer this question. I mentioned before in my script, we had an issue during the year on Vans which is normalizing as you saw in our results. As far as we know there's no real issue in the market in other brands or in other channels.
- Analyst
Okay, thank you very much and best of luck.
- Chairman & CEO
Thank you.
Operator
We'll take our next question from Camilo Lyon with Canaccord Genuity.
- Analyst
Thanks, and all the best to Eric and Steve. Just want a little clarification on the commentary on the proactive inventory pull back for North Face and for Timberland in the fourth quarter. Were there any order cancellations that materialized, or really what was the impetus for this? It sounds like this was a stark change from how you'd anticipated the season unfolding. And given that we're at the outset of this beginning of the season, and I appreciate the awareness of the channel inventory, was there something that drove this initial sort of decision to pull back on inventory that you saw from your wholesale partners?
- President & COO
Sure. There have not been any cancellations to our order books. If anything its been that shift to the right of demand from what historically was Q3 into Q4. What really caused us to talk about mitigating our inventory positions in the marketplace really has to do with what we see in the off price channel, really driven from the record warm winter of last year but also the bankruptcies that compounded.
And as we rolled into September and just were able to see the amount of inventory out there not just ours but of all brands, it just -- we've taken the position to be very proactive and thoughtful about managing long-term integrity of our brands. And these are great channel partners, but there's a finite amount of capacity out there and we want to be really thoughtful about how we're utilizing it.
- Analyst
Great and just a follow-up on that. Should there be incremental demand as the fourth quarter progresses and hopefully as winter really materializes, could that serve as a lever to meet or satisfy reorders if and when wholesale partners of yours realize that they under ordered and under stored or under inventoried their stores? Or was that inventory you pulled back on, was that curtailed farther back in the supply chain?
- Chairman & CEO
No, well I think high level answer to that is, we run our business on average we have about 100 days of inventory, so right now our plans are kind of in that zip code. I hope we end the year with 90 days of inventory because that would mean that we had a good winter and we were able to sell some more through, but it's not like we're standing here with no product to sell. The question is, does it match up with what demand is, and that's never going to be perfect. But I don't want people to think we don't have the ability to chase some things. We just can't chase everything.
- Analyst
Last question too. You speak about the strength of DTC and how there's a divergent path of how your brands are performing. You speaking to those growth numbers could you just dig into the unit comparisons and what you're seeing on a unit basis of sell-through in your DTC versus your wholesale?
- CFO
I don't think we're capable of that.
- Chairman & CEO
Great question.
- Analyst
You see what I'm trying to get at right? You also get the pricing benefit of your DTC, but we're just really trying to dig into what is the underlying unit demand because there's obviously that.
- Chairman & CEO
Sure, well the numbers I gave in an earlier comment and I was focused on the North Face for our direct-to-consumer business was up mid-teens both in the Americas and Asia and high-teens in EMEA. Guaranteed there's unit sales increase in that because we certainly don't have mid-teens to high-teens price increases in our products. Particularly in the third quarter, where we're not selling our most expensive outerwear products or selling other kinds of products in those stores. So it implies, it actually tells you that there's a unit price increase, that might be slightly below those because we haven't taken big retail price increases.
- Analyst
Perfect. Thanks guys, good luck in the fourth quarter.
- Chairman & CEO
Thank you.
Operator
This does conclude today's Q&A session. I'd now like to turn the call back over to Eric Wiseman for any additional or closing remarks.
- Chairman & CEO
Thank you and thank you all for being with us on this call. I said at the opening that we had a lot to cover, that's why we went a little long on the Q&A. We wanted to give you a chance to ask your questions.
I hope you heard from us a lot of confidence about the upcoming quarter. As I said earlier, the fourth quarter is where our business model shifts and our direct-to-consumer business peaks, both in dollars and as a percent of our revenues. And that's our best indicator and that's where we've been performing strongly, we're up 7% year to date.
We also have confidence in our wholesale business because by this stage in the game, we obviously are in the quarter we have the most visibility of any quarter in terms of what's going to happen from a wholesale business, and we sit here confident that we can deliver the year as promised. Even though we have -- it is not what we promised at the beginning of the year for lots of reasons that we've discussed. I hope we gave you some clarity and look forward to talking to you in February.
Operator
This does conclude today's Conference Call. Thank you all for your participation. You may now disconnect.