PVH Corp (PVH) 2011 Q2 法說會逐字稿

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  • Operator

  • Good day everyone and welcome to this PVH Corporation Second Quarter 2011 Earnings Conference Call.

  • This webcast and conference call is being recorded on behalf of PVH and consists of copyrighted material.

  • It may not be recorded, reproduced, retransmitted, rebroadcast, downloaded or otherwise used without PVH's express written permission.

  • Your participation in the question and answer session constitutes your consent to having any comments or statements you make appear on any transcript or broadcast of this call.

  • The information made available on this webcast and conference call contains certain forward-looking statements which reflect PVH's view of future events and financial performance as of August 30, 2011.

  • Any such forward-looking statements are subject to risks and uncertainties indicated from time to time in the Company's SEC filings.

  • Therefore the Company's future results of operations could differ materially from historical results or current expectations as more fully discussed in its SEC filings.

  • The Company does not undertake any obligation to update publicly any forward-looking statements including, without limitation, any estimate regarding revenues or earnings.

  • The information made available also includes certain non-GAAP financial measures as defined under SEC rules.

  • A reconciliation of these measures is included in the Company's earnings release which can be found on the Company's website www.PVH.com and in the Company's Current Report on Form 8-K furnished to the SEC in advance of this webcast and call.

  • At this time, I am pleased to turn the conference over to Mr.

  • Manny Chirico, Chairman and CEO.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Thank you very much.

  • Good morning everyone.

  • Joining me on the call this morning is Mike Shaffer, our Chief Financial Officer; Allen Sirkin, our President and Chief Operating Officer; Ken Duane, who runs all of our North American wholesale businesses; and Dana Perlman, who is our Treasurer and Head of Investor Relations.

  • We're very pleased with the results we reported for the second quarter and our ability to take up our projections for the year for 2011.

  • I'm going to start with the Calvin Klein businesses and more or less try to give you a little bit of an update of the trends of business as we see them in the second quarter.

  • Mike will then quantify the results in the second quarter and then I will come back and just talk about some of the trends we see in the early part of the third quarter.

  • Our Calvin Klein business continued its strong growth momentum in the quarter.

  • Total revenues in the second quarter for the combined Calvin Klein businesses were up 19% and our operating profits increased over 20%.

  • The CK apparel business, wholesale and retail that we run in North America, those businesses posted a 21% sales increase in the quarter.

  • The strong performance was driven by our men's wholesale sportswear business as well as the very strong performance in our own retail stores in North America.

  • Our Calvin Klein retail businesses posted a 21% comp store increase in the quarter.

  • In our licensing segment royalty revenues were up 12%.

  • I will put some color on some of the larger businesses.

  • Our underwear business was ahead about 14% worldwide.

  • All regions in the quarter -- Europe, Asia and the Americas posted double-digit sales increases.

  • The growth was driven by the continued growth of international retail square footage and the extremely strong performance of CK One.

  • The CK One product has been supported by a significant marketing campaign and marketing investment through the first half of the year.

  • CK One is the largest launch in the brand's history and retailer results have been strong in all markets.

  • In men's, CK One continues to exceed our plans and helped us to grow and maintain our number one position within US department stores.

  • CK One is expected by the end of the year to represent about 10% of our total men's underwear business.

  • On the jeans side, our jeans and related businesses were up about 8% for the quarter fueled by the strong growth internationally -- Latin America, Asia and Europe.

  • Overall our international jeans business grew over 20% while our domestic jeans business was down about 8%.

  • The jeans business in the United States continues to be under pressure overall and we see our men's business outperforming our women's business within the United States.

  • Moving onto fragrance, our Coty fragrance business had a strong quarter posting a 10% increase in revenues.

  • Business was very good across the board with our Euphoria, Calvin Klein Beauty and CK One fragrances continuing their strong growth momentum.

  • In the third quarter we will have a major product launch with CK One Shock.

  • It will be supported by a strong marketing campaign.

  • It will be a global launch.

  • Product has begun shipping in early August.

  • We will see much more of a presence as we step into September and going into the fall holiday selling season.

  • We have very high expectations for CK One.

  • We see excellent placement of the product.

  • We think the marketing campaign which started in the first half of the year around CK One will accelerate in fragrance in the second half of the year and we are very positive as we see that business going forward.

  • In our North American women's apparel and related accessory business, we had very strong performance in the quarter.

  • Our revenues were up in excess of 15% for the quarter in those combined categories.

  • On the apparel side, the growth is being fueled by strong selling of women's sportswear and dresses as well as good performance in the outerwear category.

  • And we get a better view into the outerwear category as we really get into the third quarter this year.

  • We have very strong placement across the board.

  • In footwear in North America revenues are running over 25% ahead.

  • In addition our new handbag accessory business is off to a very strong start, exceeding our expectations and our plans.

  • G-III has seen excellent placement and sell-through both at Lord & Taylor and at Macy's.

  • And we think the footwear, accessory area will continue to be a growth area for Calvin Klein the balance of this year into the next couple of years, as we see real opportunity there.

  • Our watch and jewelry business with Swatch saw significant growth in the quarter posting a 35% increase over last year.

  • The growth was driven by door expansion and significant comp store sales growth in both Asia and in Europe.

  • On our CK bridge business in Asia, that business continues to grow very strongly with Club 21.

  • We posted a 40% increase in revenues for the quarter.

  • The growth is being driven by China, Hong Kong and Korean markets where we are experiencing door expansion and double-digit comp store growth.

  • Moving on to Tommy Hilfiger, from a brand marketing perspective we're just introducing the third chapter in our very successful Meet the Hilfigers marketing campaign as we continue to invest and broaden the reach of the Tommy Hilfiger brand worldwide.

  • We have just recently increased our fourth-quarter marketing spend by about $10 million.

  • Our global fall holiday campaign will have significant exposure in major markets throughout North America and Europe.

  • The fourth-quarter marketing campaign calls for a significant television and cinema component for our marketing exposure in Europe and in Asia -- and the United States, excuse me.

  • So we're very excited about that campaign as we go forward and we think it will just continue the momentum in the brand.

  • Overall, all of the Tommy businesses had a very strong quarter and significantly exceeded our expectations.

  • Total revenues in the quarter were up over 30% and operating earnings increased 34%.

  • The brand's performance in both North America and Europe was particularly strong.

  • Let me start with the European wholesale business.

  • For fall holiday, we have seen sales growth of over 15% over the prior year.

  • On a product category basis we have seen double-digit growth in men's and women's sportswear, denim and in footwear.

  • We're also seeing strong growth in accessories and handbags as that business is just really starting to ramp up.

  • We have seen strong growth across all of Europe for the fall holiday season.

  • Business in our largest market, Germany, is running ahead about 15%.

  • Our second-largest market, which is Spain, and the Spanish market as you know is under significant pressure, we're seeing very healthy growth in Spain of about 5%.

  • Really focused on El Corte Ingles where we continue to grow our presence and our market position in the store.

  • Our key growth markets of Italy, France, Russia and the UK are all growing at over 15%.

  • Also in the second quarter we saw about a $20 million increase in early fall shipments as major customers accelerated their deliveries forward in order to meet the consumer demand we saw for our product in early fall.

  • So that was very exciting as well to see product being pushed forward by our customers.

  • Moving to the Tommy international retail business, in the second quarter comp store sales were up 12% driven by the strong performance of all European markets across the board.

  • They all posted double-digit sales increases in all the major markets that we operate in.

  • Our North American retail business posted a very strong comp store growth in the quarter of plus 13%.

  • We're seeing strength in all regions of the country with particularly strong performance in the geographic areas that cater to international tourists.

  • The Tommy retail results are very consistent with the strong sales performance we're seeing in our Calvin Klein retail business throughout North America.

  • The Tommy Hilfiger wholesale business continues to perform ahead of plan.

  • At Macy's we're seeing in the second quarter average unit retail increases in excess of 5% and we're seeing sell-throughs there are exceeding our sales expectations in the sportswear area.

  • Moving onto our Heritage business, revenues increased about 9% in the quarter driven by a 20% increase in dress furnishings and an 8% increase in wholesale sportswear sales.

  • Our Heritage resale business posted a healthy 2% comp store increase which is right on plan.

  • Operating earnings for the quarter were relatively flat as the strong dress furnishings earnings performance was more than offset by a gross margin decline in our IZOD sportswear business.

  • Due to increased promotional selling we wanted to significantly get ahead of the curve, clear goods as we went back into the fall selling season.

  • And as we head into back-to-school we feel very good about the position we're in from an inventory point of view on the floor and we think we're well-positioned for the IZOD sportswear business as we move into the third quarter.

  • With that, I'm going to turn it over to Mike and ask him to quantify some of the results for the quarter.

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • Thanks Manny.

  • The comments I'm about to make are based on non-GAAP results and are reconciled in the second quarter press release.

  • Our revenues for the second quarter were $1.334 billion.

  • Revenues for the quarter were greater than our previous guidance and significantly greater than the prior year.

  • Driving the higher revenues was strong performances in our Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein businesses.

  • Gross margins for the quarter were 54.4% of sales and were ahead of plan and down 120 basis points [from] the prior year.

  • The rate decline was predominantly driven by product cost increases which our Heritage business did not offset with AUR increases coupled with promotional selling in our IZOD wholesale sportswear business.

  • Our Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger businesses had a lower gross margin rate decline in the quarter as we sold all product with higher cost increases in the latter part of the second quarter.

  • In addition, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein were able to maintain AUR increases of about 5% on spring product.

  • SG&A for the quarter was 43.1% of sales, 140 basis point decline versus the prior year.

  • Our SG&A expenses continue to show improvement as a result of synergies that we [take] to the Tommy Hilfiger acquisition, coupled with our ability to leverage our large revenue increase for the quarter.

  • In addition our SG&A for the quarter included approximately $10 million of higher marketing expenses from the prior year.

  • Operating income for the second quarter was $151 million, a 24% improvement or $29 million increase over the prior year.

  • Driving the increase was our Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein businesses, which had earnings increases of 34% and 21% respectively, and were driven in large part by the revenue increases mentioned previously.

  • Inventories for the quarter were $877 million, about 26% greater than the prior year.

  • Our inventory increase reflects a higher level of core product inventories primarily in the dress shirt furnishings business.

  • In addition, cost increases as well as continued early purchasing to take advantage of downtime production were also factors.

  • Our inventory is both on plan and very clean.

  • As a reminder, and as we called out in the previous quarters, we will continue to see higher inventory levels as we continue to take advantage of downtime production.

  • Inventories will come more in line with last year in the fourth quarter.

  • And lastly on the second quarter we made debt repayments of approximately $100 million.

  • Moving to our guidance for the year, our revenues are planned [to] $5.78 billion to $5.82 billion, an increase of about 26% over last year.

  • Tommy Hilfiger revenues are planned to $2.94 billion to $2.97 billion and compare to $1.95 billion for the nine-month period last year.

  • Our Calvin Klein revenues are planned up between 12% and 13% and revenues Heritage revenues are planned to grow about 2%.

  • We're planning on gross margins down [to] about 150 to 180 basis points as a result of product cost increases.

  • Our expenses are also still planned down to be -- still planned to be down about 100 to 150 basis points, reflecting expense reductions and SG&A leverage.

  • Operating margins are now planned at 11.3% to 11.5% of sales.

  • We raised our earnings per share guidance for the year to $5.00 to $5.12, a 17% to 20% increase over the prior year.

  • This increase reflects the $0.12 actual beat over the high-end of our second-quarter guidance, as well as a $10 million increase in fourth-quarter marketing spend for Tommy Hilfiger.

  • For the third quarter we're planning revenues at $1.61 billion $1.63 billion, an increase of 6% to 7% over the prior year.

  • Driving this increase is Tommy Hilfiger business, which is planned at a 9% to 12% increase over last year, as well as our Calvin Klein business which is planned to increase 8% to 9%.

  • Our Heritage brands are expected to increase 1% in the third quarter over last year.

  • For the third quarter we are planning our gross margins down about 250 to 270 basis points as a result of product cost increases.

  • Our SG&A expenses are planned to be down about 190 to 200 basis points, reflecting expense reductions and SG&A leverage.

  • Operating margins are planned at about 13.5% of sales.

  • We're projecting third-quarter earnings per share to be $1.75 to $1.81, an increase of 5% to 8% over the prior year.

  • Our tax rate for the third quarter is projected at 30.5% to 32.5% and our guidance for the year is at 30% to 31%.

  • In the second quarter our taxes were higher than planned as a result of the timing of recording certain discrete items.

  • The recording of these items was originally planned for the fourth quarter this year but was booked in the second quarter.

  • Finally we're projecting our debt repayment -- we're projecting debt repayments of about $200 million during the remainder of 2011, which will bring our total repayment since the Tommy acquisition to about $700 million.

  • And with that, we will go back to Manny.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • I just wanted to take a moment.

  • I know besides our results for the second quarter, one has some focus on what the trends in the business have been for the first month of our third quarter.

  • And our trends overall have been very strong.

  • Back-to-school selling continues to be very strong.

  • Just to put some flesh on that, in our US retail businesses our Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger businesses -- prior to the hurricane, and I will put some flesh on that in a moment.

  • Prior to the hurricane, the Thursday before the storm, we were running up double digits 10% to 12% on a comp store basis.

  • Those businesses for the second half are planned up in the mid-single digit range.

  • Our Heritage business was running up about 3% for August with a planned increase for the second half of between 1% and 2%.

  • The hurricane on Friday, Saturday and Sunday we had -- with our business being so East Coast focused, we saw an impact of about $3 million in sales due to closed stores or stores that were really impacted by traffic because of the storms.

  • It was worth to us for the month of August about 300 basis points of comp.

  • So, business on the following weekend, early reads Monday and Tuesday have been back and have been very strong following the hurricane.

  • So, we feel really good about the trend of business in our retail stores.

  • All of the stores are running ahead of our plans for the second half of the year.

  • On the wholesale side of the business, both the Calvin Klein and Tommy businesses continue to perform ahead of sales plan.

  • And although it is still very early, we have not seen any customer resistance to our fall retail price increases at all.

  • So (inaudible) on those businesses continued.

  • In dress furnishings we have had excellent success passing along the cost increases and the retail price increases that we've seen in the business.

  • We're seeing a significant increase in AURs out the door in our dress furnishings business at the wholesale level.

  • On the Heritage sportswear business it is too early to tell.

  • The August business is very much, particularly on the main floor and going up against private label in August, is very much driven by -- continuing to be driven by spring clearance and summer clearance.

  • So it is too early to give a strong handle there.

  • As we would expect, we think that is the area where we will be most challenged trying to raise prices in there and we will update you further on that as we move into the third quarter going forward.

  • That business represents less than 20% of our total volume.

  • So 80% of our volume really we are seeing good response to our higher priced tickets in North America.

  • Moving to Europe, our wholesale business really continues to see strong momentum.

  • Wholesale represents about 70% of our total European business.

  • Our spring 2012 order book which will start shipping in the fourth quarter is running ahead about 13%.

  • And we're planning that business up about 9%.

  • So we're running significantly ahead.

  • As I said in my previous comments, we have seen our customers accelerate deliveries forward to really good get pre-fall in early.

  • So, no lack of momentum that we're seeing in Europe on the wholesale side of the business.

  • Moving to our European retail comps, the comps in the month of August are up about 3% against the second half plan of about plus 4%.

  • That business seems to be running on plan.

  • Margins there are strong.

  • We've raise prices in our European retail businesses at the customer level.

  • We're getting a good response to that.

  • We feel good about how that business is has been set up.

  • On our overall guidance I think Mike in a really good job of quantifying that for you.

  • We have tried to be prudent with our estimates.

  • We haven't changed any of our estimates really for the second half of the year.

  • All of our operating assumptions about gross margins, how much of the sales -- retail price increases that we ultimately will be able to pass on to the consumers.

  • We have not changed any of our assumptions there, although the results have been significantly ahead of where were planning them right now.

  • We believe we continue to have momentum in the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger business, which will continue to drive our growth and should allow us, if trends continue to exceed the projections that are out there.

  • And with that I will open it up for any questions that you might have.

  • Operator

  • (Operator Instructions) Kate McShane, Citi Investment Research.

  • Kate McShane - Analyst

  • Thank you.

  • Good morning.

  • Manny, I heard you speak about sportswear and I wondered if you could just go into a little bit more detail when it came to price increases.

  • I know in the first quarter you had seen a little bit of inversion in share because you didn't see a lot of other competitors raising price in the sportswear category.

  • I wonder if you could tell us what you saw in the second quarter and what you expect for the back half in that category.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • In sportswear [in general] on the collection side of the floor, the Calvin and Tommy business for us specifically, we saw continued price -- retail out the door increases of about 5% in the second quarter; very healthy.

  • On the more moderate businesses, particularly in the IZOD business, we needed to move through some excess inventory that was on the floor.

  • We needed to clear product.

  • So clearly there we saw no increases in retail prices.

  • In fact, in IZOD, our retail price out the door was down as we were very aggressive about moving products to get ourselves positioned for back-to-school.

  • So again, on the main floor I think [we'll] continue to see some pressure and it is just too early to give you a read.

  • Clearly on the floor ticket prices have been raised across the board, be it private label, collections, branded main floor business as well.

  • All of those have seen ticket increases of anywhere from 10% to 20%.

  • How the consumer reacts to that, the amount of promotions that will go off of that I think will clearly be determined over the next four to five weeks as we go forward, as we really get into department store selling and back-to-school.

  • We will keep you posted on it.

  • But I think it is still an open book at this point, particularly for the main floor.

  • Kate McShane - Analyst

  • Okay, great.

  • And then, Mike, I was wondering if you could break down the inventory increase into a little bit more detail, as to how much is coming from higher cost and from bringing some products forward.

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • You know, we have talked about our cost increases being up somewhere between 10% and 20%, so you could use 15% for cost increases.

  • The dress shirt increase, we have talked about we have added core product.

  • It is all -- we have added core product for dress shirts and then the early sourcing piece is the biggest factor.

  • We are utilizing downtime production.

  • We are seeing the benefit in our cost, and that is the largest component of the increase.

  • And that will continue through the third quarter.

  • We will see inventories get back in line for the quarter.

  • Kate McShane - Analyst

  • Okay, thanks very much.

  • Operator

  • David Glick, Buckingham Research Group.

  • David Glick - Analyst

  • Good morning.

  • Congrats on the quarter.

  • I just wanted to touch on Europe for a moment.

  • If I missed, I apologize.

  • Could you walk us through what your comparisons are Q2 through Q4 in European retail?

  • I know it is only 30% of your business, but it sounds like you had a very strong second-quarter results, on plan so far for Q3.

  • But just remind us on the comparisons.

  • And then secondly, what gives you the confidence on the wholesale side?

  • The bookings are really strong, kind of in line with the strength in the first half, that hasn't moderated at all.

  • But is there any risk to the European wholesale bookings for fall holiday and spring in Europe where trends seem to be moderating?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Let me try and take those in pieces.

  • On the European retail business, to remind everyone, last year second quarter our comps were at about flat to plus 1%.

  • And internationally we put on an increase of about 12% against that.

  • As we went into the third quarter our comps significantly improved depending on [the walk] of 10% to 12%.

  • So, we saw a real improvement in comps third and fourth quarter in the 2010 fiscal year.

  • So we're against much tougher comp store comparisons, about 10 full percentage point increase in the second half of the year versus our first-half comparisons.

  • I think that is part of why we are seeing our comps really moderate to about plus 3%, which we think it is still very healthy.

  • So that is European retail and hopefully that puts it into some perspective.

  • On the wholesale side, based on the trends, based on the way business is done in Europe I don't see any risk to shipments for fall and holiday.

  • Goods are really -- much of the selling season at this point is being shipped in the month of August, early September.

  • We have seen no pullback.

  • In fact as I mentioned, if anything we have seen customers really accelerate the pullout of goods.

  • The spring orders, you know absent a catastrophe across Europe, I don't see any real risks at all.

  • Those are hard orders.

  • Those orders are placed.

  • Again you don't want to force goods into any channel, but our read of business and how the Tommy brand is performing against all of the competitors across Europe, we continue to outperform at retail and I think that is clear from the results.

  • So I think if anybody's going to pullback or stop, it is not going to be the Tommy business.

  • So I see very little risk in our wholesale business for the balance of 2011.

  • And I think just the way we have planned the business, given the fact that we're planning spring only up 9% from a financial point of view and bookings are running 13% plus at this point, I think is just the indication of the conservatism that is built into the wholesale plan.

  • David Glick - Analyst

  • And just one follow-up on the North America, can you help us understand the strength in dress furnishings?

  • Is there a fit or a fashion trend going on there?

  • Does that you a bit of a buffer against your risks that you might see in the sportswear business on the margin side?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Sure.

  • Look, our dress furnishings business on an annual basis represents about 33% of our overall business.

  • Then the balance is between our retail direct and our wholesale sportswear.

  • So it's a very big piece of our business on the Heritage side, very stable.

  • And we're seeing very significant AUR increases in dress shirts.

  • I think that's a combination of these significant positions that we hold on the floor in each of our major customers that we have been able to very thoughtfully raise retail prices across the board.

  • Continue to promote off of the higher retail prices, but in the first month of August we've seen AUR increases -- I guess if we look across the board of 10% or more as we have gone forward.

  • So, very healthy AUR increases.

  • We think it is a category that given its dynamics is one where the AURs are going to stick as long as the inventory is controlled.

  • At this point the inventory is very well controlled.

  • From a fashion point of view, I think dress-up is clearly an area that is in cycle at this point.

  • Even on our sportswear side, more refined sportswear is doing much better.

  • We're seeing real good performance there.

  • Slim fit is a real significant fashion and that plays into the strength of a number of brands, particularly Calvin Klein.

  • And all of those really factor in to give us an ability to raise price across the board there.

  • So, the dress furnishings there is an area we're really feeling good about as we go into the second half of the year.

  • David Glick - Analyst

  • Thank you very much.

  • Good luck.

  • Operator

  • Bob Drbul, Barclays Capital.

  • Bob Drbul - Analyst

  • Good morning.

  • I guess the first question I have is when you go back to the hurricane impact on your sales, how much of the business do you think you lost.

  • How much do you the think you can get back this weekend?

  • Or how are you approaching it from the business standpoint?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Look, we're looking at it day by day.

  • I think I mentioned we quantified we believe it was about a $3 million sales hit in our own retail stores.

  • And I think if the first two days of this month are any indication, there's a good chance we could get a lot of that back in the next 10 days as we sell into Labor Day weekend, which is a huge weekend for us.

  • We've seen very, very strong comp store performance Monday and Tuesday.

  • Now, you never can tell what is driving that and what is happening there.

  • But clearly there seems to be some pent-up demand.

  • People are looking to shop.

  • We continue to be appropriately blessed from a promotional point of view but not overly aggressive.

  • So, I don't think it's going to cost us anything significantly from a margin point of view.

  • And we'll get a better read on that in the next 10 days.

  • But I'm optimistic about some of that coming back to us in September.

  • Bob Drbul - Analyst

  • Okay, great.

  • And then I guess I just have a question on the pullback in cotton.

  • Can you give us an update in terms of where you are from a leadtime perspective and sort of how far out you guys are bought and sort of how soon some of the lower-priced product can flow through the income statement?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Sure.

  • I think we're buying spring as we speak, have been buying it, spring one, spring two.

  • We have bought February/March at this point.

  • And what we're basically -- a flow through on our -- on the lower costs that we're anticipating in spring really won't be seen until we get into the first quarter next year, and really the second part of first quarter of next year.

  • I think the way I would look at it, Bob, is right now we are seeing in general when you factor all of the costs, we're seeing a pullback in costs from fall holiday prices of about 8% to 10%.

  • When you compare that spring to spring, we're probably looking at an increase spring '11 to spring '12 of somewhere in the 6% to 9%, 10% price range, which is significantly under the kind of increases we saw for fall.

  • If those trends were to continue, we could actually see the decline in costs as we go into the second half of next year.

  • But that, again, is all on the come.

  • So indications are that there should be some margin recovery if we're able to hold the retail prices into the second quarter of next year, into -- during the fourth quarter of next year as well.

  • So it is looking much better as cotton has really pulled back.

  • And it is not just cotton.

  • It's all the raw material components that go into our product.

  • Bob Drbul - Analyst

  • Great.

  • My last question is on the Tommy Hilfiger, the advertising spending and then the additional $10 million in the fourth quarter.

  • With the increases that you have invested into the business last year and this additional $10 million, does that put you at a level that you think is the new ongoing run rate?

  • Or do you believe there's still opportunities to continue to invest in the advertising over time?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • I think on the percentage of sales we will continue to invest in marketing as we go forward.

  • So as the business grows and as we are really expanding into new markets, particularly Asia, which we are -- is a significant growth area for the Tommy brand on a relative basis compared to North America and Europe, we're significantly underdeveloped there.

  • I think we will continue to make major investments in marketing as we go forward, but in line with the growth of that business.

  • So I think from an operating margin point of view we should actually start to see -- continuously see improvement in the operating margin percentage of the business as we leverage the growth.

  • But we will continue to make those marketing investments proportionate with the growth in the business.

  • So hopefully that answers the question now, looking at going forward.

  • Bob Drbul - Analyst

  • Thanks very much.

  • Operator

  • Adrianne Shapira, Goldman Sachs.

  • Adrianne Shapira - Analyst

  • Thank you.

  • Manny, just a few questions.

  • First if we could spend a little bit of time on the gross margin as it relates to the guidance, the first [path] clearly above plan.

  • Q1 up 200 basis points, Q2 down only 120.

  • It sounds as if while Heritage remains a wild card as it relates to pricing, but now that you have cleaned up that IZOD inventory, help us think about the 150 to 180 basis point gross margin guidance.

  • It would seem to suggest sort of the worst-case or perhaps declines from here.

  • How do you -- how would you have us think about, to get to the 150 to 180, given how the first half was well above plan?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Well, look, we have tried to adjust the annual gross margin, some level of improvement against that.

  • But look, there is opportunity.

  • I think the opportunity clearly is in the dress furnishings area and in the Calvin Klein and the Tommy Hilfiger businesses to outperform our plan.

  • At this point given -- when you look at the macro environment that we're dealing with and some of the volatility that we just saw in the month of August from -- just from a geographic point of view, politically, all of that chaos that is out there, it just doesn't seem prudent for us at this point to start changing our plans, our financial plans [moving] forward.

  • I think given the strength of the businesses, those particularly three businesses -- dress furnishings, Calvin and Tommy -- gives us more -- it makes us more optimistic about what we see for the second half of the year.

  • So I wouldn't call -- I don't call anything a worst-case, but I think it is a conservative case.

  • I think there's an opportunity to outperform against that.

  • But again, we will deal with that as it unwinds and as we have laid it out there.

  • So I think your observations are all appropriate.

  • But given the macro environment, I don't think at this point in time we want to change any of our future projections.

  • Adrianne Shapira - Analyst

  • Great, makes sense.

  • Speaking to the chaos that we saw in August, we appreciate the hurricane clarity that you gave us.

  • But maybe spend a little time on how you saw given August trends given the market volatility we have seen, this kind of roller coaster, how you have seen the consumer respond.

  • Do you see trends intra-month similarly be quite volatile or did you not see much change at all intra-month?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Not really any dramatic changes intra-month.

  • There's couple of crazy days that when the market went down 900 points.

  • I think there were some people who were a little nervous.

  • But absent a period of time, about a week in the middle of August, it was nice to see business really bounce back very strongly in the last two weeks of August.

  • I can't tell you is that is just a vacation patterns, if that is the consumer; a very hard thing to read at this point in time.

  • But overall the August trends were very positive when we looked at them overall.

  • Adrianne Shapira - Analyst

  • And then my last question as it relates to the domestic jeans business that you cited, some weakness down 8%, maybe shed light on that weakness especially as we are in the back-to-school season and clearly looking for some steeper price increases.

  • How should we be thinking about that business and what sort of plans to see some recovery there?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • You know what, I guess I would first say on a direct basis we've got limited visibility on the jeans business.

  • And by that I mean is the biggest business we have obviously is the Calvin Klein jeans business worldwide, and that is a license business.

  • So we see our results and we understand what is going on in that business, but we don't look at the day-to-day as we would if it was an operating business.

  • But I don't think -- so from that point of view I think that business is under pressure.

  • I think the women's jeans business is under significantly more pressure than the men's jeans business.

  • In our Tommy business, from a European point of view that business continues to be very strong for us.

  • It is growing in the high single digit range for us from both a retail and a wholesale performance level.

  • So we have really seen not a lot of impact there.

  • And I was really talking about the Calvin Klein jeans business where I said was down 8%.

  • That was a function of -- a big function of the women's jeans component.

  • I think when you're running us overall brand like Calvin or Tommy, and you have a sportswear business that sportswear business I think is benefiting from a lack of jeans business.

  • We are selling a lot of dress pants.

  • We're selling a lot of khakis.

  • We're selling a lot of non-denim product which is really benefiting both the Calvin US business and the Tommy US businesses that are much more focused on those areas.

  • Adrianne Shapira - Analyst

  • Great, thank you.

  • Best of luck.

  • Operator

  • Jeff Klinefelter, Piper Jaffray.

  • Jeff Klinefelter - Analyst

  • Thank you and congratulations everyone.

  • Great quarter.

  • I just wanted to follow-up on something, Manny and Mike, on the Tommy Hilfiger business.

  • In terms of the operating margins, think someone referenced this earlier in terms of leverage potential going forward.

  • But given the very strong topline trends this quarter, modest op margin expansion, how should we think about sort of charting this leverage path going forward?

  • I know you're going to continue to put dollars and marketing dollars as you have effectively with your other brands, but where are the leverage points?

  • And how much higher can these op margins go for Tommy over the next call it four to six quarters?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • I think there is a long-term answer to that and a short-term answer to that.

  • I think clearly when you think about the Tommy business, particularly financially, we have been very specific.

  • We've talked about that we have raised AURs in the area of 6% to 8% internationally with cost increases of about 15%.

  • So I think when you look at the details you will see significant leverage on the SG&A line.

  • And you will see gross margin pressure for the next two quarters and then I think you will see some -- you will see a relief to that in first and second quarter, but still plan down because spring will be over that.

  • Once that margin situation balances itself, I think given the kind of growth we're anticipating -- which is not 30% growth but more like a low double-digit increase for the international component of Tommy Hilfiger -- we should be able to grow our operating margins in that business about 100 basis points a year ongoing.

  • We've been consistently doing that in the Calvin Klein business each year since our acquisition.

  • I think with the kind of growth opportunities that we have with the Tommy business, with the high single digit increase it Europe and a double-digit kind of increase throughout Asia and South America, that we should be able to get a leverage on that business where we could look at a 100-basis-point improvement each year going forward in that business.

  • So, just directionally without a lot of -- without taking you through all the nuts and bolts, I think that's the way you should think about it.

  • Jeff Klinefelter - Analyst

  • Okay.

  • And then that doesn't assume much of a change in mix between wholesale and retail, if we think about that kind of year two or three out.

  • And then just one other question on the inventory.

  • Mike, you mentioned taking advantage of some kind of off cycle manufacturing and production to get some cost savings.

  • Is there any way to estimate what kind of a benefit you are receiving from that and what kind of offset it is to the natural inflation?

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • Yes, I guess when you go out there and you start hearing about what people are talking about in price increases, I think we are towards the lower end of the range at 14% to 15%.

  • I couldn't get much more definitive than that.

  • But we are measuring it.

  • We are watching it.

  • We are very happy with the way it's going right now to getting reduced costs for bringing that product [online].

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Look, Jeff, we're probably caring about 30 days more inventory in between the second and third quarters of this year all the way through.

  • And that is really twofold.

  • As Mike said, to take advantage of the cost benefit of taking some goods earlier, taking advantage of the downtime production.

  • But it is also, given the chaos that we believe is in the market, it was trying to be prudent about making sure that with the goods and the availability of the goods for the important back-to-school selling season to have them positioned, take advantage of the sales.

  • And I don't know think -- if we didn't have those goods, let's be directly honest.

  • We would be able to fuel this 20% sales increase that we had in the second quarter.

  • So we're really trying to do it prudently, thoughtfully.

  • We're not taking in high, high-fashion goods and taking a risk on them.

  • We're carrying 30 days of inventory which we think is maximizing itself in higher sales potential and higher earlier sales in the season at better gross margins.

  • So we think we are better positioned at retail in both our own stores and in department stores, and I think those things are benefiting us as we go forward.

  • The seasonal volume is no different.

  • We are just accelerating some of the buying.

  • I think it has been thoughtfully done and prudently done.

  • On the second part of the question, was there a second part?

  • I'm sorry.

  • No, I think I that is it.

  • So that is really, as a summary obviously with the inventory.

  • Jeff Klinefelter - Analyst

  • Manny, the other part of it was just the retail versus wholesale mix on the Tommy business.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Yes, thank you.

  • Wholesale continues to grow internationally.

  • Retail continues to grow.

  • Market by market we look at this.

  • But we don't -- I would not foresee us having a significant change in the mix of our international business going forward.

  • It will stay somewhere in Europe about 30% and overall internationally about 35%.

  • So I think we will continue to invest in that.

  • But I think given growth in the markets, I think it will stay in that general area.

  • Jeff Klinefelter - Analyst

  • Okay.

  • Thank you very much.

  • Good luck.

  • Operator

  • Robby Ohmes, BofA Merrill Lynch.

  • Robby Ohmes - Analyst

  • Hey Manny.

  • How are you?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Good, Robby.

  • Robby Ohmes - Analyst

  • Hey, just a few quick follow-up questions.

  • On your North American double digit comps that you were seeing before the storm, was there a meaningful change in the AUR component to that versus what you were seeing?

  • Meaning, did the price increases kick in and is that driving comps or supporting comps in your own stores?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • I think across the board, short answer, yes.

  • I think across the board for fall as we plan the business, we really plan the business on a retail dollar basis.

  • We haven't planned it on a unit basis except a little bit in dress shirts, which is a [size driven] business.

  • But for the majority of businesses we really looked at it from a retail dollar point of view.

  • So, clearly, AUR is making up a big component of that increase as well as selling additional units in Calvin and Tommy.

  • In our own Heritage businesses we're selling at higher AURs and actually selling slightly lower units, just as we would have planned it.

  • Robby Ohmes - Analyst

  • And can you -- do you have a rough number on the AUR benefit?

  • Is the AUR up something in the neighborhood of 10% at the Tommy and Calvin Klein outlet stores, would you say right now?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Jeff, for the second quarter, where I think Mike was very explicit, we said we were up about 5%.

  • And that has improved in August but I don't have an exact amount.

  • Robby Ohmes - Analyst

  • And the other question was just as you look into next year and you are out of the Timberland sportswear business, are you expecting to pick up that floor space with either Hilfiger or something else you guys do?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • You could be sure that Ken and his team are fighting for every inch of square footage on the floor and trying to take advantage of, with the portfolio brands that we have, what would be appropriate for each store to fill that in.

  • Be it Tommy at Macy's or Calvin, or be it IZOD to take advantage of that as well.

  • Again, I'm not going to be able to give you much more color on that right now, but in general, yes.

  • Robby Ohmes - Analyst

  • Great, thanks a lot Manny.

  • Operator

  • Evren Kopelman, Wells Fargo.

  • Evren Kopelman - Analyst

  • Thanks.

  • Good morning.

  • You know, I wanted to ask about Europe.

  • That is one of the biggest fears we hear from investors.

  • So, on the Tommy business the spring orders seem to be holding in pretty well.

  • Maybe talk about when during the last recession before you even owned Tommy, did they see cancellations of orders?

  • Because you said is typically unlikely in Europe to see cancellations compared to the US.

  • And also thinking about the downside, are there cost cutting opportunities in that business?

  • They were a private business during the last recession.

  • Did they not cut as much maybe as you guys did as a public Company?

  • What is the inventory kind of on the downside, how to manage that?

  • If you could give us some color on managing the downside there, that would be great.

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • It is really hard to talk about downsize when the business is growing 13% and just coming off of a sales increase that is probably closer to 30%.

  • So it is really hard for me to deal with that.

  • Obviously the economy business weathered The Great Recession of 2009 very well.

  • A lot of the business that they kind of heightened on was more driven from a credit point of view than it was driven from cancellation of goods, and not wanting to put more goods into the market.

  • So, I think clearly during that period of time just like us, and particularly with the Calvin business, it was a tough period of time.

  • Sales were kind of flat for them.

  • But they grew significantly in their market share, and as they came out of the recession, they came out very strong.

  • So I think that clearly -- it's been a brand has weathered the storm as well as anyone [if it is that case].

  • We just don't see that -- again, there's no guarantees in life.

  • We just don't see that kind of pressure in Europe at all, particularly with the order book being up 13% and retail comps being up 3% in August.

  • We don't see that kind of pullback of double-digit negative comps that might have happened post The Great Recession in 2009.

  • So there are obviously -- are all levers to push from an expense point of view and we would do what is appropriate given the volume.

  • But I can tell you the business was an efficiently run business.

  • It wasn't a privately owned business by an entrepreneur that didn't have an owner.

  • It was owned by a private equity firm.

  • So clearly they were driving the profitability of the business as well.

  • So I think it is -- obviously given the operating margins of the business, the levers very efficiently operate the business.

  • There would be places to look at from an expense point of view.

  • Marketing would be one area.

  • If sales came down, we would move the percentage of sales with it, from a marketing point of view, that we would spend.

  • But again, I think we continue to view it as a growth vehicle, not [downsizing].

  • Evren Kopelman - Analyst

  • Great.

  • That is very helpful.

  • The other question I had was on IZOD for the second half.

  • What does your gross margin guidance assume for margins there?

  • You said you cleared -- so you are kind of entering the second half in a good position.

  • But does your guidance assume a better margin performance for IZOD in the back half because of maybe entering more cleanly relative to the first half?

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • You know, I think we've been pretty clear.

  • Just a reminder, IZOD is part of the Heritage business.

  • And as we look to the fall season in the second half of the year, our gross margins will be more under pressure on the Heritage businesses.

  • So when you look at the declines for the second half of the year and the operating margins, I would expect the Heritage business from IZOD to be under more pressure obviously than Calvin and Tommy.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • (multiple speakers) We're dealing with 50% cost increases in the second half and 5% in the first half, just to remind you, so clearly I think gross margin is going to be -- gross margin has been planned down, will be down in the second half of the year there.

  • But I think what we will see is higher AURs there.

  • I think we are very clean in inventory and I think we have a good opportunity, particularly in the fourth quarter where a significant amount of the AUR deterioration is on clearance goods, significantly less units in the pipeline.

  • That is the real opportunity to improve the AUR out the doors.

  • And that we feel we're in excellent position to capitalize on.

  • Evren Kopelman - Analyst

  • That's great, thank you.

  • Operator

  • Howard Tubin, RBC Capital Markets.

  • Howard Tubin - Analyst

  • Thanks guys.

  • As you continue to pay off debt related to the Tommy Hilfiger acquisition, any thoughts you may be starting to repurchase some shares, particularly given the valuation of the stock?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • At $67, somebody just held up a sign, I don't know that the stock is that cheap.

  • A moment in time 10 days ago it was $51, so -- but I guess the short answer is absolutely not.

  • We've been very clear is strategically about where we're moving and heading.

  • De-levering the balance sheet continues to be our highest priority.

  • We have paid down $500 million of the debt since acquisition.

  • We plan to pay down another $200 million in the second half of the year.

  • I think strategically that positions us for future acquisitions.

  • And I think clearly given the business plan, the strategy, the most important thing we can do is pay down the debt.

  • So maybe it wasn't such a short answer, but that is where we're focused and there has been no change on that.

  • Howard Tubin - Analyst

  • Got it, thanks.

  • Operator

  • Eric Beder, Brean Murray.

  • Eric Beder - Analyst

  • Good morning.

  • Congratulations on a really solid quarter.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Thanks.

  • Eric Beder - Analyst

  • I want to follow-up on that debt question.

  • What would you, what is kind of the ideal debt leverage ratio that you want to have for the Company before you would, A, start to think of a -- before you start to think of acquisitions or anything -- other pieces there?

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • 2 to 2.5 times EBITDA leverage from an EBITDA point of view; I think were on track to deliver that by -- if things continue and we deliver and pay down the debt, we're on a track to be in that position to deliver that next year.

  • Eric Beder - Analyst

  • Okay.

  • And in terms of the US retail stores, is there any thought of increasing, maybe rolling out some more Calvin or Tommy stores to some tourist areas you're not in right now?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Well, if you could find some, we'll open them.

  • We are aggressive about opening in those locations.

  • But we're also clear about balancing the number of regular price stores we have versus outlet stores that we have.

  • And I think that is clearly where we would look at it.

  • I think Calvin and Tommy will continue to see good growth in the retail component of the business with a focus on tourist destination areas, lifestyle centers, really where the brands play very strongly.

  • So again, we will continue to make investments in those areas, but in a very balanced way against our wholesale distribution in North America.

  • Eric Beder - Analyst

  • Great, thank you.

  • Again, congratulations on a solid quarter.

  • Operator

  • Omar Saad, ISI Group.

  • Omar Saad - Analyst

  • Hi, guys.

  • Good morning.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Good morning Omar.

  • Omar Saad - Analyst

  • Quick question on IZOD, Manny -- was the -- do you think what is going on there, is it brand-specific or product-specific?

  • Or do you really think it is more that that consumer's in a tough spot right now?

  • Just help us understand what is structural versus Company-specific.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Look, you could always do -- we could always do a better job on product and we could always do a better job on marketing, all those things.

  • I don't want to say we can't improve.

  • Obviously we can.

  • But I think realistically there is also that consumer at the opening price point in department stores, competing against private label, I think is clearly an area that is under the most pressure right now.

  • From an economic point of view, when you look at how the consumer is being impacted, clearly as we go [off] the distribution channel we're seeing stronger and stronger sales there.

  • And as we work our way down, potentially, that distribution channel to that consumer, that consumer has got less discretionary income and is feeling less secure maybe about their job.

  • So I think is the reality there that we have to play in.

  • So, I think when you run a portfolio company you get the benefits of running that portfolio company -- the strengths in the market against the weaknesses in the market.

  • And that is a component of our business is under more pressure because of that.

  • And clearly IZOD is by far the biggest, the largest Heritage brand we have.

  • It is probably on the main floor, the largest sports brand on the floor.

  • So I think it is feeling to some degree, the pressures that are going on.

  • Omar Saad - Analyst

  • Got it.

  • Thanks.

  • Manny, I also wanted to ask about accessories.

  • I heard you mention it in your prepared remarks several times in shoes, bags, and I know those categories are doing really well right now -- watches and other leather goods.

  • Can you talk about Calvin and Tommy?

  • Tommy is more historically a sportswear brand.

  • Calvin has always been big in the jeans and the underwear and the fragrances.

  • What is the accessories opportunity for these brands and kind of where you stand on that curve?

  • And how do you put that into context relative to the longer-term opportunity?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Sure.

  • Look, the accessories area is clearly a big opportunity for us.

  • In our own stores, both Calvin and Tommy, we do about 10% of the volume in the stores what I would characterize as in the -- 10% to 12% of the volume is in that accessories area.

  • So clearly there's an opportunity to grow that.

  • If you think about the Calvin, if we just focus on North America, the Calvin North American opportunity we have sized as somewhere around $200 million on a wholesale sales basis.

  • We would hope to accomplish maybe in a five-year period of time, that would be luggage, small leather accessories and handbags.

  • Today that business is projected to do less than $20 million.

  • It is off to a very strong start, but it's still a very small business in a very hot category where we think Calvin plays extremely well in.

  • So we think that is a real opportunity for continued growth in the brand at very good exposure for the brand in a category that carries high margins and also high price points that we think is good for the brand overall.

  • So clearly there is an opportunity there.

  • In Tommy we think there's also a significant opportunity in our own North American retail stores.

  • We have a great handbag business that does extremely well.

  • We're just starting to roll that out in North America.

  • From a wholesale point of view we think there is great opportunities.

  • And to remind everyone, we bought back in 2010 the handbag and accessory license from our license partner and brought that in-house in Europe and internationally.

  • Our footwear business is over EUR100 million in Europe.

  • Our handbag business is about EUR20 million, so clearly we think handbags could at least be as big as our European footwear business.

  • So, both I think have significant growth opportunities at high margins.

  • And as a product category we think those product categories are very brand-enhancing.

  • Omar Saad - Analyst

  • Thanks Manny.

  • Great job, good luck.

  • Operator

  • (Operator Instructions) Carla Casella, JPMorgan.

  • Carla Casella - Analyst

  • Most of my questions have been answered, but I guess I should just clarify.

  • Going forward now that you will have annualized the Tommy Hilfiger purchase in the next quarter, will we no longer see the acquisition-related charges and the inventory liquidation costs?

  • Or should we still see more of that in the coming quarters?

  • Mike Shaffer - EVP, CFO

  • You will not see the inventory liquidation costs, but again, some of the severance payments, since the accounting requires you to expense those as they're being incurred, you will continue to see those through the balance of this fiscal year.

  • Carla Casella - Analyst

  • Okay, great.

  • That is all I had.

  • Operator

  • Dave Weiner, Deutsche Bank.

  • Dave Weiner - Analyst

  • Good morning and a very nice quarter.

  • A lot of my questions have been asked, but just a quick one.

  • I don't think you have discussed China at all.

  • Could you talk a little bit about -- I know you have made some recent hires there in terms of someone running that business and just kind of what the roadmap is for that business over the next four to six quarters?

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Yes, I guess I'd rather -- to take it in context, I'd rather just speak about Asia.

  • And I think you're really talking about the Tommy Hilfiger business.

  • We made a major hire for the Tommy business for the CEO of Asia, John Ermatinger.

  • He came out of The Gap and has a long background and a lot of history and experience in that region of the world, and we think he is going to be terrific to lead our growth throughout Asia there and we're continuing to make investments in that market.

  • China specifically for us, the brand is underdeveloped there.

  • The brand is very well-known there.

  • We have about a $40 million to $50 million business today.

  • To remind everyone, it is a business that we receive full royalties for and we own a 45% interest in the joint venture that operates the business there along with our partners.

  • We think it is clearly a market, when you talk about China everyone talks about billions.

  • But it is clearly a market that we could see very accelerated growth in.

  • We will be looking at it.

  • John is really into it significantly.

  • And we will start to report the results for China the beginning in the third quarter of this year.

  • So, we will start to update you about what we're seeing in that business as we go forward.

  • On a relative basis it is still immaterial to us, but could be very material to us for the growth especially as we look 2012, 2013 and beyond.

  • So that whole -- the Tommy business -- Asia represents, if you gross up the sales, both where we have license and we operate the businesses either under joint venture or directly, Asia represents about 15% of the brand's total volume.

  • And we think over time it should represent closer to 30% volume of the volume over the next five to six years as we grow.

  • So it's a significant growth area for us.

  • And I think we're building the infrastructure there, similar to what we have in Europe and what we have in North America to really take advantage of that growth both from a logistics point of view, back office, senior management capabilities.

  • And we're very happy with the progress we're making and the kind of growth we have seen so far since we have owned the business.

  • Dave Weiner - Analyst

  • Great, thanks Manny.

  • That was very helpful.

  • Operator

  • And at this time we have no further questions in the queue.

  • I would like to turn the conference back over to today's speakers for any additional or closing remarks.

  • Manny Chirico - Chairman, CEO

  • Thank you for your attention this morning.

  • We appreciate all your support.

  • We look forward to reporting to you in November on our third-quarter results.

  • Have a great day.

  • Operator

  • Thank you sir.

  • That does conclude today's teleconference.

  • We do thank you all for your participation.